![]() ![]() This was an idea I came up with to get the most out of low heat flouros. so simply put, one vertical lattice, or chicken wire would be enough to thread a plant in and out, allowing the entire branch system to be exposed to light, the next row would be duplicated with another vertical system, so your plant will not be a bush, but rather a flat vetical panel of green, like a vine going up the side of a house. I was excited when I saw these set ups too, but they just dont have the punch it takes to make big beautiful berries, but if you as u say are worried about heat, and can take the loss on fruit size, then you are on the right track, the idea of the lamps underneath sounds good, but think about this, invest in some lattice or chicken wire, fabricate a way, (i was gonna use pvc as a frame for the chicken wire) to make a number of rows about 12 inchs apart (vertically), and stand them up, as high as you can in your tent, as the plant grows thread it in and out of the lattice or wire, and then in between these voids or rows that are 12 inchs apart, hang your t5 systems, they are designed to be hung either way. To make it simple, stare at a 400w hid, and then the 432 w sunblaze, I bet you will see white spots sooner looking at the hid. I like the 8 bulb system, because of the area coverage, and low heat, but when it comes to making fruit, I say go with the high beams. the only sure way, take clones, same size, same mother, and grow under a 400 hid metal halide blue, and a identical batch under the sunblaze, there will the truth be found. So then I started a new group of beans, different strain however, and they just did not respond like the hid plants. check out my thread "i cant grow" those plants were started with a 1000 metal halide blue bulb, and then the pics were taken with the new sunblaze, after putting the sunblaze on them, the growth slowed, granted it was 1000w vs 432w. ![]() its like driving by a car with the lights on bright vs. hid is for flower, as the flouros are for veg. I know that you like the lumens numbers, and they sound good, but those numbers are based on INITIAL lamp output, after awhile they dim. i like them for only seedlings, clones, and a little veg. the numbers look great on these 8 bulb systems, but they are not as bright and they dont penetrate down thru the plant as well, thus affecting yield. the hps can get a 4x4x8 area up to 140 degrees, yes, based on bad bad experience. the flouros on get the room temp up to 85 degrees, which is very easy to bring down to 74. I run the 8 bulb (4 footer) on clone tray and 1 mother, but, I use 6 blues and 2 reds for 18 hours, it gives a more complete spectrum, but of course heavier on the blue side. the summer is approaching) and yes, i know HPS is better, and I know how to cool the lights, ect, ect, but security is #1 priority where I am currently livin, and i want to go with a 600HPS or 1000HPS but to cool the light, run ducting, ect is too much for now, plus I will still be using garage to park a car, and i dont want anybody to see ducting all over the place.so whatta you peeps think? will it work? these will add an additional 38,000 lumens for a total of 118,000 lumens!!! ] which is the main reason for using this type set-up.I am trying to have the lowest radiant heat emmiting in my grow tent, (56" x 56" x 78.75" ie almost 25sf) growing 20-25 autos in 3 gallon bags,(6.5"w x 7"d x 13"h) that will be in my garage! (btw i live in hot *** S. what do u think about using two 4' 8 bulb each HO T5 fluorecsent 3000k warm red bulb systems for entire flowering cycle? 5000 lumens ea bulb, using 16 blubs total, that would equal out to 80,000 lumens, which is also equivilent to a 600HPS, (80,000-90,000 lumens) I also wanna get six 4' single strip HO T5's, (warm red also) and lay those on the floor parallel to the plants in each row for additional side & underneath lighting.as well as four 2' HO T5 6500k daylight single strips in all four corners 2000 lumens ea. Ok, so I just purchased 3 sunblaze light systems.two 8 bulb & one 4 bulb. ![]()
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